Peter Bunce
I have finished my boiler shop building and it was time to complete a long standing promise to build a kit of a 'Steam Donkey' that was brought back for me last year by a good friend.from the USA. This kit is by the Ozark Miniatures. First an explanation of what a Steam Donkey is - in short it was one of the the first mechanical aids to industry: that is 'portable steam power' with the addition, by the logging industry of a winch system that could aid the removal of logs from the huge American forests. It was also used as a general wich system for moving anything required.
This kit, made by Ozark Miniatiures in the USA, is a superb kit and is capable of making a very impressive model. It is possible to make many variations from it as these machines were a total law unto themselves. The scale is approximatly 1/20th, really there is not a true scale as these machineswere built in a multitude of sizes, and designs. This one is a small and quite early design.
Here is a view of it with the assembly work partially done. It is virtually complete, and is almost ready for painting. This will make seeing the variations and additions that I have made a bit more difficult.
The main addition is new skids which are longer than the ones supplied: this is to allow for the extra water tank at the rear and the extra planked area at the front. This extra length meant that more crosspieces were needed with more brass (wire) tie rods and also the white metal ends that are on the outside of the skid beams. These extra outer ends are made from bits of plastic and bicycle spoke bits.There are also 4 new attachment points for towing ropes fitted, one at each corner, these are also from plastic card, and the rings from copper wire. Following the instructions and after drilling the holes for the brass rods, glue the new base up in a long vice or a 'Workmate' style bench. Extra planking is cut from red deal, as here in England we do not have a readily available supply of red cedar. I also added, on the engineer's side the two planks at the same time; these can be seen in the upper photograph. The extra water tank replaces the two large resin barrels that are supplies as one of the options, again it is made from red deal, and was cut on a small Proxxon circular saw. This saw is a most useful little tool, and with the special small blade can cut down to 1mm wide strips of 1/2mm plasticard. It has a maximum cut depth of 12mm (just under 1/2") at that depth you need to go slowly with what you are cutting though! I have the small one, which is the model without the facility to angle the saw blade; that is included in the much larger cousin to this which is a B&Q 8" circular saw. This unit MUST be treated with great care and respect, it is capable of a great deal of damage, but circular saws need an added level of respect - they are very dangerous! I also added, on the engineers side, a couple of planks with a set of diagonal under supports so he has space to work easily. The engineer himself is shown sitting on the planks - he is one of the Fine Folks figures (he has been promoted from the fireman which is the name they gave him) as reviewed in an issue of Garden Railways. The total length of the Steam Donkey now is a scale 26ft long: that is 390mm or 16inches long.
I will build either a longer flat (30ft?) or (preferably I think) a couple of logging 'disconnects' for it soon. The plans for the logging disconnects, which are individual two axle units in the Jan/Feb 2004 issue of that marvellous magazine 'Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette'. The description disconnects because they are just that - a couple of diconnected trucks that have on the top of them a pivoting beam for holding logs, or anything else the loggers could think of! They were (eventually) joined together with a pole, and to the next set by the infamous 'link and pin' couplers. They will be scratch built and I will put the details onto this site when I have finished a pair at least (they are likely to grow in nmber, if the first ones built go together easily I think!).
The winch unit has also been fitted with 4 scratch built shackles as on the modified winch unit supports.
With all my modifications I have perhaps messed up the levels of the main (center)shaft: I found that the hole in the winch was about 1/2mm too low. The hole was filled and a new hole drilled. The main shaft is made from the supplied 3mm brass rod; I substituted some Plastruct rod of the same diameter; this can bend slightly (as it is flexible) when feeding it in (or out) - this is needed to be done a few times during assembly.
The mass of pipes (which are the water feed system) are meant to be made from the supplied brass 1/16" rod. This would be in my opinion difficult to cut (1/8" long pieces etc.) so I again replaced the brass with Plastruct 1/16" white styrene) rod. The modifications are OK for a temperate (& rainy) climate like the UK. This modification may not work in hot areas of the USA and Australia!
These two photos are close-ups of the piping in position This is where more hands would be a distinct help! The white coloured pipes are the replacement Plastruct 1/16" rod.. Note in the photo how the piping follows the curve of the boiler, this is needed to get it all into position. I have also added by the side of the three 'try cocks' a new boiler water level glass. This would, at the time this boiler would have been in use, a new system, and did in time replace the 3 'try cocks' as it is a much safer method of indicating the water level. The open hole is for the whistle by the way; I added another later in my build.
All the tiny white metal pipe corners, and the valves and injectors have the location dimples first enlarged with a spherical burr, then are (carefully!) drilled a short way extra to accept the rod, which has a rounded end sanded onto it. Then the recommended CA (super glue) can be used - and don't glue your fingers together. I used a toothpick to apply the CA glue, which is from a small amount of it on a piece of polythene - it will not stick to this and the toothpick lifts some off it for use.
 There was at this stage, still a lot to do, but it is well under way now. There needs to be two sizes of rope I think; the haulback one being the thinner - I have them ready for cutting to length and coloring, they are 1/2mm and 1mm diameter. The deep haulback reel has been 'padded out', using a polystyrene donout, then covered with a black piece of paper so only a single layer or two is needed.These ropes were coloured both by old strong tea (leave the ropes in overnight) and also with thinned acrylic ink
Later I had the paint pots in use, I finished my donkey in an 'in use' - that is slightly worn condition, which looks better than the pristine 'as new' condition. Needless to say it needs a good paint finish before you start to 'mess thing up' I added several 'washes' of very weak (add water + 10% approx windscreen washer fluid to the mix) acrylic colour and ink over the wooden parts of the skid beams. The ironwork was painted black as an undercoat. Then I added the same style of washes but with some rusty (orange and burgundy) colours added to the mix as well. The boiler and horizontal winch unit especially were very well weathered, adding a lot of various earth colours into the (several) washed applied 'one by one', after letting each one dry. This stage of the painting is most enjoyable, but it does need a lot of time to be given to it.
I applied more of the 'rust' mix around the bottom of the boiler/firebox unit and some around the piping to give these areas more 'definition'. Whilst using the rust mixture add some to the exposed screw threads on the ends of the cross tie rods as well. Another addition is to finish off with some streaks and small areas of graphite from a solid graphite pencil (this will give wider streaks than a pencil) ,to give a shiny look on these parts (some of mine are running down the cone on top of the boiler as if there has been some condensation or abrasion here. Add a little colour to it by painting the whistles either brass or bronze colour. The intention is to make it look as if it is both a 'well used' and 'cared for' piece of equipment. This I would say is the sign of a good engineer, who understands and looks after what he is in charge of.
Here are the results -
The photos show where I have added a lot to Ozark's already good kit. The added 'double bin' to the rear of the scratch built water tank (note the tap, on the engineers side!), has one of these bins loaded with some extra (there is also a ready use supply by the steam pump as well) wood fuel, this is quartered bits of either small twigs from the garden or 'bashed about' bits of wooden dowel. If you use the latter which is much easier to cut add some washes of dirt and such like and roughen up the surface with both a file and if possible a small 'file cleaning brush' or an equally useful small wire brush. The intention is to destroy ther regular look of the quartered dowel pieces; ensure that it will fit the boiler by checking the length against the boiler diameter.
In front of the water tank is one of Ozark's steam transfer pumps, with hoses attached to it, the inlet hose having a ball shaped strainer (small plastic sphere) added. This pump is not included in the kit. The upright exhaust pipe (made from brass wire) has a muffler added to the top, and it slopes away from the crew side of the machine. The hoses are made from the insulation around houshold electrical flex; another item that can be used is solder wire, which is avalable in several sizes, use 'shrinkwrap' tubing to join this onto the tank and pump. Extra plumbing has been added for the pump, and a second and smaller whistle also added, and its associated piping was made and added by the side of the supplied one. Now the donkey crew can have a couple of different sounds at their disposal.
The front apron has a couple of long ropes dumped on it, with the longest wrapped around the winch capstan (gypsy?). All ropes are made from 1mm string, with the thinner ones are approx .5mm diameter. The 'haulback' rope drum has a polystyrene washer added to 'bulk up' the apparent rope on the drum before adding the (tinted) rope. The front end of this is run forward by the winch and a small amount coiled down on the front apron/deck.
Finally I added a scratch built bucket from .5mm plastic card, for the crew for washing purposes etc, it is jammed into the empty corner by the winch on the crews side.
This is a very enjoyable kit, Yes, it is expensive, especially in the UK. Manufacturing costs have been kept down as far as possible as this is a very small steam donkey as these machines go, the latter ones were very large. There are also now other versions available - a mobile power palnt and some different winch versions as well. See the 'Ozark Miniatures' website where there is a full catalogue.
If you are interested in these first, early forms of mobile power plants could I suggest that you see if you can buy a copy of the book called 'In Search of Steam Donkeys' by Merv Johnson. It has been reprinted recently (2004) and is a very informative source for these machines. The publishers for this book are 'Timber Times'.
Since building this model I have found that there are sound modules available for Steam Donkeys - both from 'Miller Models' or ITT sounds. These are perfect for inside layouts and can, with protection, be used outside I believe (fix them inside the roof of buildings, and leave some holes for the sound to escape); both sites (which are in the USA) have samples of the sounds available.
Finally I have no connection with any of the companies I have listed.
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