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Time for a roof to be made, the main roof is made from 1mm thick plasticard, make sure that it is 6mm wider than the cab on the front and sides – the reason for this will come later. Score a line down the centre and gently bend it to expose the ’v’ groove; into this groove glue a piece of 030 square rod, do this on the roof of the cab to ensure that you have the slopes right! Let it set overnight if possible so you have a strong joint; then sand the joint smooth so it cannot be seen.
Mark out the roof to indicate the lead sheet covering that was fitted to the roof exterior, mine has a centre piece 15mm wide with the pieces on the sides being 20mm. Divide them into sections overlapping the edges of each set; start on the centre one and move outwards mine are 30mm long. I have scored a line at the joints, then on the ‘end to end’ ones I fitted in a piece of .010 rod, this gives some extra detail, in the real thing the joints were soldered together.
Turn the roof over and add the cross ribs that will stiffen it, I have made mine so that they are each side of the ribs on the cab, the front is made from wider strip with gaps to allow for the whistle(s) and bell cord to pass through the front, and also the centre strip that holds the cab light assembly from the old cab. The rear support is single sided to the outer end and acts as a clip to hold the roof in position (aiding the small pieces of ‘blue tack’). When dry I fit an internal roof, made from pieces of Slater’s 4mm planked plasticard with the planks running ‘end to end’; there are 3 pieces that fit between the inside roof ribs, finish them off with light & dark contrasting coloured planks, this is what the inside of Showman’s traction engines had when new, and looks very nice. When dry and varnished glue the sections in position. Now admire your handiwork – looks good doesn’t it?
With the roof made add it to the cab and then add a couple of strips around the upper edge of the cab, and close against the roof itself, I used some .040 strips of plasticard here. This takes up some of the rather large roof overhang, and indicates the strengthening of the upper edge of the cabs to accept the roof, the rest of this overhang is to ensure the rainwater is kept from the cab itself.
Back to the outside of the roof: add a couple of rain strips; made from 1mm square plastic strip; mine are parallel to the roof edge till the roof overhang at the rear of the cab starts then the are sloped up – this would (hopefully!) keep any rain off the crew – the rear cab windows are open do not forget. When the cabs were new they will have had a couple of sliding windows supplied, but they seemed to disappear into the deep recess of the ‘shops’ somehow, it must have been much easier to ‘hang out’ of the opening without them there. Finally add an armrest to the engineers side of the cab make it from scraps of plasticard.
Here is a photo of the top of the finished cab roof
The painting of both the interior and exterior of the cab can now be done; I used Humbrol enamel (ref. number 2) for the dark green and an acrylic red oxide for the red color; the entire interior is done with acrylics. Varnish the interior for final protection. The roof needs the exterior painting; this is a lead grey, with some weathering from a darker set of grays on top of that, take the colour round the edges of the roof and up to the inner planked portion. Leave the new painting to harden off well.
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