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I made an &--8216;old style&--8217; cab to the same dimensions of the steel cab that was fitted to the loco. I am sure this is somewhat of an anachronism but that was the effect I wanted. The style is a peak roof, arch window style, and is made from three layers of plasticard to replicate the 2.5mm thickness of the original. Two outer layers are 1mm thick with a centre layer 1/2mm thick; this is the 4mm wide planked layer for the side panels. Here is a photo of the cab being built, with the original cab by its side.
I started off at the front of the cab, marking out on 1mm plasticard the dimensions of the cab, including the two high and small front windows; add some trim of small strips to replicate the extra edge of the framing for them. Cut it to size, and include the cutout at the front that will slide over the boiler. Each side of the cab front is an opening door; below these doors is the slot that the stepboards on the side of the boiler fit into. Between the two there is a black cross piece that includes the lower pivot for the front doors; remove and store carefully these crosspieces, by adding some liquid cement each side to loosen them and push them off. Mark out the cutout for the cab doors to the same size as the cut outs on the old cab. Remove the doors, and paint them in your desired colour scheme; mine is red oxide of the font with the inside being cream to represent unpainted wood. Later we will add from the original cab the cross pieces that fit below the doors. When you have the (full width) front cut you can continue with the side panels, allowing for the 1mm thickness of the front; I designed my own, choose a drawing that you like and work from there, making the exterior layer.
Some strength is required in this cab, and also to match the thickness of the original cab; that is 2.5mm thick: I had a centre layer that included some planked
Slater&--8217;s 4mm planks, 1/2mm thick) just the right thickness! The centre layer was made from several pieces &--8211; ensure it is well glued in position, and also the same applies to the joint between this layer and the innermost layer &--8211; use plenty of glue! I use the Revell &--8216;pistol grip shape&--8217; glue dispensers &--8211; this glue is slightly thicker than the normal liquid variety, and has a slower setting time.
To give a greater gluing area you need to step the levels of the 3 layers that the cab is made from. The exterior is &--8216;front wide&--8217; the two inner layers should be made so they are &--8216;front narrow&--8217; &--8211; allowing for the thickness of the extra layers (which is 1.5mm). This will make a very thin edge on the inner pieces of the front, by the outer edges of the front doors, so care is needed. The two small windows need to be cut slightly wider on the centre layer to allow for a gluing ledge for the glass; I used some old acetate sheet, pre paint the area before fitting them.
To keep the rear edges of the cab in the correct positions add a flat arch shape piece here, again of 3 thicknesses; I have added a couple of small windows, but when I assembled it all and fitted it, in location, I do not think they are needed really.
This cab is meant to represent a wooden one, so a representation of the steel sheet that surrounds the boiler is needed. The full size cab is open here and this steel sheet fills the gap twixt cab and (lagged, but still hot) boiler. Make it from .010 thick black plasticard and glue it on the front of the cab, then add the fixing bolts from tiny blocks of scrap plastic. It is now time for some careful measuring of the holes through the cab front that are needed for the removed pipes that you saved earlier. Carefully add them to your new cab, and measure twice before drilling &--8211; care is required as they are very close to the slot that the boiler fits into. Start small and then enlarge them to size, do not forget the lower one on the driver&--8217;s (engineer&--8217;s) side that is for the pipe from the air tank. Add a couple of seats in the rear corners for the crew &--8211; use some 1mm thick pieces of scrap. Also transfer the cab handrails and fixing knobs to the old cab; but do not fix then till after the cab has been painted.
I removed from the old cab the fixings for the screws, and glued them into the inner corners of the new cab: ensure that there is a slightly larger ring at the bottom (look at them before removing from the old cab, most of this ring will be disappear when you remove the cab fixings), these rings seat into the raised rings on the cab floor.
Go back to the old cab and measure carefully where the cross pieces were for the bottom of the opening cab(front) doors; cut the housings for these with care, they should not cut into the front layer of the cab(front), and also add the hole at the top for the upper pivot pin. Try the doors in position, and ensure they move easily you may need some slight adjustments, allow a tiny amount for the paint film. When the doors appear to fit well glue in the cross pieces with the doors in position, and leave overnight to ensure that the glue has set. The next day try them to ensure they move easily, and rectify any faults. When all your drilling has been done to stiffen the cab further I added some cross pieces at roof level &--8211; these can be seen in the photo of the cab being built, they are mainly 1mm thick, drill the engineers side for the whistle cord before fitting it.
With the cross pieces in position, I added some strips for the cab interior light; the front strip has a &--8216;tight fit&--8217; hole for the light, add a couple of small holes at the front, for the extended wires to pass through. The strut behind this is to add some stiffening for the front strip; glue both strips in position.
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