The Denver & South Park used what were called 'swing motion trucks'. The Bachmann ones can be quite easily converted to a reasonable facsimile of these; NOT perfect but quite acceptable I think. The same comments also apply to the LGB trucks that are also available from the trade, as Bachmann do not sell trucks separately. The finished results are also very like the Carter Brothers trucks that were used on some Californian Narrow Gauge railroads. The techniques I have used here can also be used to make the other designs of DSP trucks as well, I will be making some of the Theilsion trucks that sat under the 'Tiffany' Reefers when one of those is made but that is in the future at the moment. These modified trucks will retain their truck-mounted couplers and I believe they will still work correctly.

Remove the trucks from the vehicle. Turn them upside down and unscrew the crosshead screw fixing the sideframes, then these will slide off. Now remove all the centre detail, springs etc, so you have a smooth surface left, I used a sander drum to remove most of the detail quickly, there will be a small square depression at the top, fill that in with filler. Cut from .040 thick plasticard some strips 3mm wide. From these for each bogie side you need a couple at 15mm long and one piece at 8mm long, this is the cross piece which is fitted 3mm down from the top to make a (rough) letter 'H'. Glue this in the centre of the bogie, and let it dry, I used Evo-stick and added fillets of the glue around the cross piece to give a rounded corner. Now we are back to adding some wood piece to change the look of the bogie ; on each side of the centre fit a piece 12mm x 6mm (the same size as the flatcar end beams ) x 7mm long. You will need to file a 45 degree bit off the rear to allow it to fit snugly in; do both and glue them in. A 'top piece' is now cut 25mm long x 3mm thick x 4mm deep; this should cover the top of the two pieces just fitted, again glue in position. That's it you have a reasonable swing motion truck! There are other versions of these trucks, they are drawn in a book 'Denver, South Park and Pacific Modelling Guide, by Ron Rudnick. My copy is version 4.1 dating from 1998 - it was bought in 2003. For DSP goods stock (not Waycars (cabooses) though) it is invaluable! The drawings are to the American 'O' gauge which is 1/48th scale. For international modellers this book is available from Coronado Models in Phoenix, Arizona, USA.

There was in the very early days of the DSP, extensions to this truck at each end from which the brake shoes were hung; these can be added with some work. Most of the work is done with 1mm plastic card with a small amount of .75mm .030) card as well. There are also some other various bits needed as we go along. Each truck will use about 13" of the 1mm card and about 10" of 4mm wide x .75mm strip plus some for the 4 brakeshoes. To work then, cut some strips 5.9mm wide, form the 1mm (.040) plastic card strip: to get this unusual measurement set a pair of twin point screw dividers to the width of the Bachmann or LGB sideframes, and use that to mark the width needed. From the strip cut 4 pieces 30mm long, and at one end drill a 1mm hole equidistant from the end and in the centre of the strip. Before gluing these in position you need to remove the upper part of the strip above the axleboxes (that will leave one (moulded) strap there: there are two to start with), onto that glue the strips, with the end with the hole(s) at the outer end, the strips will be horizontal. From the outer end add a small 6mm piece doubling it underneath, then add a small square piece of the .75mmm strip. Continue the hole through these two extra pieces per end. From the inner end of this there is a 19 or 20mm long piece that fixes at the bottom end to the outside of the axlebox. Before fitting these angled pieces 'true up' the lower edge (outside the axleboxes) to give a good gluing surface, Both ends of this piece are tapered. When both ends are done replace the bolt heads above the axleboxes, using 1mm cubes.

When all the additions are dry screw the sideframes back onto the bogie, and add a strip 4mm wide x .75mm strip between the ends, again drill the ends with a 1mm hole as before. Another pair of holes (also doubled with a 4mm x .75mm square piece for the wire that will hold the brakeshoes in position. These extra holes are 50mm apart from a centreline. If you are keeping the Bachmann couplings and their projecting bar the other (outer) end will not accept a single strip; the projecting bar is in the way. Instead cut a pair of smaller (28mm) pieces and fix them to the bar as shown in the photographs, which show the details required. You will be able to remove the coupling later if your needs change, without disturbing all your handiwork. Fit these smaller pieces as the coupling end, and ensure you have them ion line with each other, and level with the fixing plates being on the upper part only, do not forget the holes for the brakeshoes. Now glue these crossbars in position and through the holes glue in a small piece of 1mm rod that has a domed head uppermost (heat it up, either in a gas flame or with a soldering iron - BOTH done WITH CARE!). When dry cut the projecting piece off the bottom leaving about 1mm - this will look like a fixing bolt. For the (wire) rod I use the wire from Paperclips, get the plain (cheap!) wire ones, about .75mm diameter, not the plastic coated ones. The wires are 13mm long, with a 90 degree bend some 3mm in from one end, and the other end just 'bent over'; both bends are in the same direction. When you have cut the 4 needed (per bogie) glue them in the holes with the bent bits facing inwards and together. I use Evo-stick glue as it stays flexible, this flexiblity will be needed later.

Now put the bogie on one side, the brakebeams and brakeshoes need making. The brakeshoes are tiny and 'fiddly' - first make a pattern from the drawings. The centre parts are cut from 1mm sheet - rather difficult due to the small size - I used two layers of 1/2mm sheet glued together. The outer parts which are 1/8th of a circle are made from .75mm plastic card, draw a circle 'just' over 31mm. This measurement should be just a bit larger than the size of your bogie wheels - I use the Bachmann metal ones, which are much better then the plastic, they give extra weight just where it is needed- as low as possible. Now draw another circle outside this and to the same centre of 4mm greater radius; this will give a 2mm strip each side of the original circle. Before cutting it out divide it into 8 equal parts, and then mark out the outer ring(between the two circles) for 8 brakeshoes (ends at right angles). You need one of these (twin) circles for each bogie. Score through the plastic card from both sides with the dividers, and cut it out - discard (or put in the 'bits' box), the smaller centre and cut the thin (2mm) washer-like part into the 8 pre-marked sections. Drill (1mm) holes in the 2 layers centre sections in the top corner for the hanging wires and glue one section on each side if the 4 centre sections. 'Viola' a set of brakeshoes; clean and true them up if necessary, and quickly paint the inner (curved) surface with a rusty paint, whilst you can get at it! The brake beam is made from 3/16" square timber and is 65mm long - cut two and mark a line 10mm in from each end, this is where the brake shoes are glued on - they should line up with your wheels.

Ensure that the holes are both on the same side - this is the top. Now 'fiddle' the lower ends into these holes so the brakeshoes and beam hang off the cross end straps and will be in line with and also close to the wheels. Put some small 'dabs' of glue where the wire goes through the holes - all of them. I use 'Evo-stick' and add it with a cocktail stick.

The outside of the wooden cross brakebeam where the brake shoes, needs a bit of detail: fit add a couple of 1mm cubes per brakeshoe, each to be 2mm each side of the brakeshoe; and a 1.5mm cube for a central bolt , these represent the fixings and also part of the operating mechanism, which has NOT been modelled!

To ensure that the rather 'weak' brake beams have some more assistance to stay in position I have fitted a (end to end) stay from .75mm plastic card, with an extra strengthening piece making this stay an inverted 'T' shape. Again paint the inside of this before fitting - a mucky earthy brown/black colour will do before fixing it to the underside of the two brakebeams. The stay is 100mm long and 4mm wide. It is also slightly flexible (side to side) thus allowing you to re-fix the bogies with the central screw quite easily

The axleboxes need a slight addition to the front of them I have added a swinging cover, from 1/2mm plasticcard, 8mm high and 4mm wide, round off the lower corners, and cut a 1/3 width 45 degree taper on the top corners. Glue them on to the upper edge of the axleboxes, with about half of the tapered (top) edges projecting, and add a 1mm cube for the pivot between the tapers

The trucks can now be painted - red oxide with the wood additions in black, and I paint the wheels with a mixture of red oxide, rust and muck, but do not cover the treads.

I have made a drawing with a scale, of the various bits & pieces described above, the side view shows in solid black the alterations to the ends of the truck, and the hatched areas are the added wood pieces for the swing motion truck. The brake shoes are not in solid black so the layers can be seen. The end view shows the positions of the upper cross bars, and the length of the (wooden) brake beam, note the end to end stay underneath it, this is shown in a small detached bit on the extreme left of the side view drawing, this shows the stiffening strip on top of it. have taken some photo's of the alterations to the bogie trucks during my work on them, and they are part of this article. The trucks are part of a comprehensive rebuild of the Bachmann Flat cars with logs, to make a Denver & South Park Flatcar/Coalcar from it.